Class was Thursday, February 4. These were the wines: How you’d see it on a wine listMas Candí, xarello, “Desig”, Penedès, Catalunya, Spain 2019 Who made it? Ramón Jané, Mercé Cuscó, Toni Carbó (first vintage 2006, previously Ramón had always sold their grapes to large cava producers)Out of what? 56 year-old biodynamically farmed xarello on a limestone ridge overlooking SaintContinue reading “Catalunya”

Taste the Rainbow!

How much do we miss when we reduce wine to a couple of colors? It feels natural to self-describe as “more of a white wine person” or “more into red,” but what we’re actually communicating has less to do with the appearance of the wine in our glass than we think. We say ‘red’, butContinue reading “Taste the Rainbow!”

Ligurian Sea

Class was on Wednesday, January 27th. These were the wines: How you’d see it on a listSulauze, “Galinette”, Côteau d’Aix-en-Provence, France 2018 Who made it? Karina and Guillaume Lefèvre, and their team.Out of what? Grenache blanc, ugni blanc (alias trebbiano toscano), clairette and vermentino planted on sand over limestone in Provence, on a 29 hectare biodynamically certified estateContinue reading “Ligurian Sea”

One Grape 3 Ways: Cinsault

One of those red grapes that sloshed around the western Mediterranean for a few hundred years and always seems to end up in blends, cinsault isn’t an obvious candidate for a class all to itself. It wasn’t until I’d had enough single-variety expressions of the grape that I really loved that I started to getContinue reading “One Grape 3 Ways: Cinsault”

Greek Islands

The islands of the Aegean and Ionian seas are both home to ancient histories of winegrowing and experiencing a revival that’s extraordinarily recent. This is one of those classes I give not out of any particular expertise but because I’ve stumbled over a bunch of interesting wines that I can’t place, and I want toContinue reading “Greek Islands”

What Is Natural Wine?

A grapevine doesn’t want to give fruit every vintage. It’s a vine: it wants to find the nearest post or tree and wind its way up to look at the sun. When farmers prune in the winter, we’re messing with the plant’s psychology. We gaslight it into thinking its life is in danger; it putsContinue reading “What Is Natural Wine?”


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