Like a wine list


Every so often, I like to look back on the wines I’ve poured over the course of this project and arrange them like they were on a bottle list at a bar. It’s a way for me to reflect on where we’ve been and what we’ve tasted together, and it’s also a way for me to see my own patterns, obsessions, and blind spots as a taster and teacher.

It gives me the same kind of pleasure I get from organizing books on a bookshelf — and just like bookshelf organization, there’s no one right way to organize a wine list.

Below, you’ll find living wines opened for classes and in-person events since January 2021, split into whether they’re made with green & gold grapes, black & purple grapes, or not with grapes at all.

Rather than subdivide by country, I’ve done what I do when I rearrange my books, which is put things next to one another when I think they can have a conversation, breaking rules when I have to. Think of each chunk of wines as a journey through regions that blur into one another and share climates, histories, and grape varieties independent of the borders that may divide them today.

We start where wine was born 9,000 years ago, in the Caucasus, and follow the Mediterranean coast all the way through the Gates of Hercules to the Canary Islands. By the end of the list, we’re going down Europe’s North Atlantic coast, from Brittany to Bordeaux through Basque Country to Galicia, and our last bottle is from Tenerife, too, closing the circuit.

In between, we’ll climb up the west coast of the Americas, starting where vinifera vines brought from the Canary Islands landed in Itata half a millenium ago. We’ll work our way over the Alps in two different directions, one following the Rhône from its source and the other the Danube; cross the Rhine from Alsace into Germany; and trace the chalk circle that the Paris Basin makes of the eastern Loire, Champagne, Burgundy, and the Jura.

Curious about any of the wines on the list? Drop me a line with questions!

WINE MADE WITH GREEN & GOLD & PINK GRAPES

ANDRIA GVINO, krakhuna in qvevri IMERETI skin contact
SOUS LE VÉGETAL, muscat, “Livia” SAMOS
SOFIA, carricante & cataratto, “La vigna di Gioacchino” ETNA
FRANK CORNELISSEN, grecanico dorato & carricante, “Munjebel” ETNA skin contact
ALESSANDRO VIOLA, grillo, “Note di Bianco” ALCAMO
LE COSTE, procanico, roscetto, malvasia, “Ripazzo” LAZIO skin contact
CLOS MARIE, grenache blanc & gris, rolle, carignan blanc, roussanne, “Manon” PIC ST LOUP
PHILIPPE PADIÉ, grenache blanc, gris, & macabeo, “Fleur de Cailloux” ROUSSILLON
LÉONINE, grenache gris & macabeo, “Qué pasa?” ROUSSILLON skin contact
ORIOL ARTIGAS, parellada, “La Grita Bardessots” ALELLA under flor
MAS CANDÍ, xarello, “Desig” PENEDÈS
ENRIC SOLER, xarello, “Espenyalluchs” PENEDÈS
FRISACH, garnatxa blanca, “Foradada” TERRA ALTA skin contact
MUCHADA-LÉCLEPART, moscatel de chipiona & palomino, “Elixir” SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA
EQUIPO NAVAZOS, palomino, “I think” SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA manzanilla en rama
COTA 45, palomino, “UBE Miraflores” SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA under flor
ENVÍNATE, palomino, “Palo Blanco” TENERIFE

MINGACO, moscatel, “Fermentaión Pipeña” ITATA skin contact
VIÑATEROS BRAVOS, moscatel, corinto, “Pipeño Blanco” ITATA skin contact 1L
ROBERTO HENRÍQEUZ, moscatel, corinto, sémillon, “Rivera del Notro” ITATA skin contact
CANTALAPIEDRA, verdejo, Mondo” RUEDA skin contact
SONS OF WINE, 180 year-old verdejo, “Flamenco de Buddha Madre” ALSACE/RUEDA skin contact pét-nat
END OF NOWHERE, verdejo, “Space Oddity” SACRAMENTO DELTA / SIERRA FOOTHILLS skin contact
END OF NOWHERE, pinot gris, “Space Boy” SACRAMENTO DELTA / SIERRA FOOTHILLS skin contact
MARGINS, chenin, “Wilson Vineyard” CLARKSBURG
FORLORN HOPE, riesling, “Ameriknischen Kobold” SANTA BARBARA COUNTY 2014
AQUILA, riesling, “Something For the Kids” NORTHFORK VALLEY, COLORADO skin contact
SMALLFRY, sémillon, pedro ximenez, riesling, muscat, “Tangerine Dream” BAROSSA skin contact

l’ENVOL, riesling, “Steinweg” ALSACE
CHRISTIAN BINNER, riesling, gewürz, muscat, pinot gris & auxerrois, “Amour Schwihr” ALSACE 2015
VINS PIROUETTES, pinot gris, gewürztraminer, “Espectacular de Stéphane” ALSACE skin contact
BECK-HARTWEG, pinot gris, “Dambach-la-Ville” ALSACE
HOLGER KOCH, grauburgunder, “Herrenstück” BADEN
WASENHAUS, weissburgunder BADEN
WASENHAUS, chardonnay musqué, “Filzen” BADEN
ENDERLE & MOLL, müller-thurgau, “Müller” BADEN
HILD, elbling, UPPER MOSEL sekt
JONAS DOSTERT, elbling MOSEL
ULLI STEIN, elbling, “Vineyard Project 001: Ewald” MOSEL
ULLI STEIN, riesling trocken, “Blauschiefer” MOSEL
PHILIP LARDOT, riesling, “der Hirt” MOSEL
PHILIP LARDOT, müller-thurgau, “Kontakt” MOSEL
CLEMENS BUSCH, riesling trocken MOSEL
CARL EHRHARD, riesling, “Frau Ehrhard” RHIENGAU 2017 skin contact
J.B. BECKER, riesling spätlese trocken, “Wallufer Walkenberg – Alte Reben” RHIENGAU
BRAND, riesling & chardonnay, “Electric Chardonnay Acid Test” PFALZ

CRNKO, welschriesling, müller-thurgau, sauvignon, “Jarenincan” MARIBOR
WERLITSCH, welschriesling, “Vom Opok” STEIERMARK
WERLITSCH, sauvignon & chardonnay, “Ex Vero II” STEIERMARK 2009
WENZEL, gelber muskateller, “Wild & Free” BURGENLAND
CHRISTINA, chardonnay BURGENLAND skin contact
MORIC, grüner & chardonnay, “Haus Marke” BURGENLAND
SLOBODNE, devin & traminer czervený, “Deviner” LESSER CARPATHIA

LA VECCHIA POSTA, timorasso, “Il Selvaggio” DERTHONA
13 LUNES, jacquère, Apremont SAVOIE
PATRICK CHARLIN, altesse BUGEY 2014
RUTISSONS, verdesse ISÈRE
NICOLAS GONIN, viognier ISÈRE
ERIC TEXIER, marsanne, “Vieille Vignes” SAINT JOSEPH 2016

GUIBERTEAU, chenin SAUMUR
FOSSE-SÉCHE, chenin, “Arcane” SAUMUR
COLLIER, chenin SAUMUR 2016
PORTE SAINT JEAN, chenin, “La Perlée” SAUMUR 2015
FRANÇOIS PINON, chenin, “Le 2016” VOUVRAY
LUDOVIC CHANSON, chenin, “Implicité” MONTLOUIS 2016
FRANÇOIS CAZIN, romorantin, “Vendanges Manuelles” COUR-CHEVERNY
PHILIPPE TESSIER, romorantin COUR-CHEVERNY
PHILIPPE TESSIER, sauvignon & chardonnay, “Les Charbonnières” SOLOGNE
JEAN-CHRISTOPHE JEZEQUEL, sauvignon SOLOGNE
OLIVIER LEMASSON, sauvignon, “Sois Mignon” SOLOGNE
BOUCHOT, sauvignon, “Terres Blanches” POUILLY-FUMÉ
JACQUES LASSAIGNE, chardonnay, “Le Cotet” MONTGUEUX brut nature
ETIENNE CALSAC, pinot blanc, petit meslier, arbanne, “Les Revenants” SÉZANNE 2016 brut nature
ANTOINE LIENHARDT, aligoté COMBLANCHIEN
CHANTERÊVES, aligoté, “Les Chaignots” COMBLANCHIEN
MARNES BLANCHES, chardonnay, “Bulle Ton” JURA vin mousseux
BURONFOSSE, chardonnay & savagnin, “Les Belemnites” JURA
ROUSSET-MARTIN, savagnin ouillé, “Cuvée du Professeur” JURA 2015

BENOIT COURAULT, chenin, “Le petit chemin” ANJOU
BERTIN-DELATTE, chenin, “l’Echalier” ANJOU
AUX MOINES, chenin, “Berceau des fées” ANJOU
AUX MOINES, chenin, “Roche aux Moines” SAVENNIÈRES
MARC PESNOT, melon b, “Couer de raisin” MUSCADET
GUILROUILH, manseng & corbu JURANÇON
LARROUYAT, manseng, “Météore” JURANÇON
ALBAMAR, albariño RÍAS BAIXAS

LA GARAGISTA, frontenac gris & la crescent, “Harlots & Ruffians” CHAMPLAIN VALLEY, VERMONT
NATHAN KENDALL, riesling FINGER LAKES
GOOD INTENTIONS, chardonnay, “Charmeleon” MOUNT GAMBIER

NOT GRAPES

WILD ARC, Northern Spy, honey, red grape skins, “Sweetheart” HUDSON VALLEY fruit pét-nat
REDBYRD, bittersweet & heirloom apples, “Star Blossom” FINGER LAKES sparkling cider
FUENTE GUIJARRO, wild foraged apples, “Ancestral” GRANADA pét-nat cider
NO CONTROL, apples, “Hellcider” NORMANDY/AUVERGNE pét-nat cider
LEGUER, pears, “Poiré” BRITTANY
FRUKTSTEREO, apples, pears, plums, solaris grapeskins, “The Fruit Pét-Nat Formerly Known As Cider” MALMÖ fruit pét-nat
TERADA HONKE, koshi-hikari rice, “Katori 90” CHIBA junmai nama genshu

WINES MADE WITH BLACK & PURPLE GRAPES

ENVÍNATE, listán blanco & prieto, “Vidueño de Santiago del Teide” TENERIFE co-ferment
CARA SUR, moscatel tinto, CALINGASTA
ROBERTO HENRÍQUEZ, 200 year-old pais, “Santa Cruz de la Coya” BÍO BÍO
LEONARDO ERAZO, 170 year-old pais, “La Resistencia” ITATA
VIÑATEROS BRAVOS, pais, “Volcánico” ITATA
MACATHO, carignan & cinsault, “Tinajacura” ITATA
ONDA BRAVA, cinsault ITATA
TINTO DE RULO, carignan MAULE
LA ONDA, cinsault, “Marea en Flor” DRY CREEK
LA ONDA, pais, “Levantamuertos” AMADOR
CRAIG HAARMEYER, zinfandel, “St. Rey” LODI
DIRTY & ROWDY, mourvèdre, “Enz” LIME KILN
BEDROCK, 130 year-old field blend, “Evangelho” CONTRA COSTA
BEDROCK, 86-126 year-old field blend, “Nervo Ranch” GEYSERVILLE
LES LUNES, carignan, “Arnold’s Block” MENDOCINO 2016

CASA DI BAAL, aglianico, “Tocco di Baal” CAMPANIA rosado frizzante
COS, frappato VITTORIA
I CUSTODI, nerello mascalese & cappuccio, “Pistus” ETNA
HAUVETTE, centenarian cinsault, & friends, “Amethyste” BAUX DE PROVENCE 2015
SULAUZE, grenache & syrah, “Charbonnières” PROVENCE
BARTASSOU, grenache, “Un petit grain de m’amour” GARD
ROMAIN LE BARS, carignan, grenache, cinsault, mourvèdre, “Nouveau Nez” GARD rosé
l’ANGLORE X MAS MELLET, carignan, “Les Salines” GARD rosé
LEON BARRAL, carignan, grenache, cinsault FAUGÈRES 2017
PETIT DOMAINE DE GIMIOS, sixteen varieties, “Rouge Fruit” ST JEAN DE MINERVOIS co-ferment
FOND CYPRÉS, cinsault, “Super Glou x Fond Cyprés” CORBIÈRES
MAJAS, carignan & grenache ROUSSILLON
LÉONINE, grenache & syrah, “Chuck Barrick” ROUSSILLON
CLOS LENTISCUS, sumoll, “Perill Noir” PENEDÈS 2012
SICUS, cartoixà, garrut, macabeo, malvasía, sumoll, “Hidra” BONASTRE co-ferment in amphora
SUCCÉS, trepat, “Conca de Llum” CONCA DE BARBERÀ
TERROIR SENS FRONTERES, grenache & carignan, “Negre” MONTSANT
ORLY LUMBRERAS, garnacha in amphora, “Malandro” SIERRA DE GREDOS

LE BONCIE, sangiovese & friends, “Cinque” TUSCANY
PRUNETO, sangiovese, CHIANTI CLASSICO 2016
SAN FEREOLO, dolcetto DOGLIANI 2013
ROAGNA, dolcetto ALBA
JEAN-YVES PÉRON, grignolino, “I Vicini” PIEDMONT / SAVOIE
GROSJEAN, petit rouge, doucet, fumin, mayolet, “Torrette” VALLÉ D’AOSTA
DUPASQUIER, gamay, SAVOIE
GIACHINO, persan, gamay, etraire de l’aduï, “Frères Çiac” SAVOIE
RUTISSONS, etraire de l’aduï, ISÈRE
HERVÉ SOUHAUT, merlot, “Le petit merle Ardéchois” ARLEBOSC
FRANCK BALTHAZAR, syrah & grenache, Côtes-du-Rhône VINSOBRES

ESCALA HUMANA, bequignol, “Livvera” UCO VALLEY
MOONLAND, carignan & apples MENDOCINO fruit pét-nat
OLD WORLD WINERY, merlot, petit sirah, chardonnay, “Impulse” NORTH COAST co-ferment
OLD WORLD WINERY, 100 year-old abouriou, “Early Harvest” RUSSIAN RIVER 2016 rosé pét-nat
IRUAI, mondeuse, “Oh-Mah” TRINITY LAKE / EL DORADO
CLOS SARON, syrah, “Heart of Stone” NORTH YUBA 2008
HIYU, syrah, teroldego, mondeuse, lagrein & more, “Crataegus” COLUMBIA GORGE
MARIGNY, pinot gris, “Wine-Like Beverage” WILLAMETTE rosé piquette
EYRIE, trousseau DUNDEE HILLS
CAMERON, pinot, “Abbey Ridge” DUNDEE HILLS
HOPE WELL, pinot, “Monday’s Child” EOLA-AMITY rosé

BECHTOLD, pinot noir, “Obere Hund” ALSACE
WASENHAUS, pinot noir, “Grand Ordinaire” BADEN
ENDERLE & MOLL, pinot noir, “Basis” BADEN
ANDI KNAUSS, trollinger, “La Boutanche” WÜRTTEMBERG 1L

MEINKLANG, rotburger & st. laurent, “Roter Mulatschak” BURGENLAND
MARKUS ALTENBURGER, blaufränkisch, “Vom Kalk” BURGENLAND
CHRISTIAN TSCHIDA, cabernet franc, “Himmel auf Erden” BURGENLAND rosé
MILAN NESTAREC, dornfelder & friends, “Barvírka” MORAVIA co-ferment
MILAN NESTAREC, pinot noir, blaufränkisch, cabernet franc, “Forks & Knives” MORAVIA
STREKOV, alibernet & dunaj, “Fred #7” NOVÉ ZÁMKY

TRICOT, pinot noir & gamay, “Les Milans” LOIRE VOLCANIQUE
JULIEN PINEAU, pineau d’aunis, “Les sucettes d’aunis” SOLOGNE
CLAUDE COURTOIS, gascon, “l’Icaunais” SOLOGNE 2016
ULYSSES COLLIN, pinot noir, “Les Maillons R.17” SÉZANNE blanc de noirs extra brut
FLAVIEN NOWACK, pinot noir, “Les Bauchets” VALLÉE DE LA MARNE 2015 blanc de noirs extra brut
LELARGE-PUGEOT, pinot meunier, “Blanc de Meuniers” PETIT MONTAGNE DU REIMS 2014 direct press
LUCIEN MAZARD, pinot noir SANTENAY
CHISA BIZE, pinot noir, “Shirokuro” SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE direct press
PIERRE-HENRI ROUGEOT, pinot noir & gamay, “Une table pour deux”, Passetoutgrains MEURSAULT rosé
MICHEL LAFARGE, pinot noir & gamay, Passetoutgrains VOLNAY
SYLVAIN PATAILLE, pinot noir, “Clos du Roy” MARSANNAY
BÉNEDICTE & STÉPHANE TISSOT, pinot noir, “En Barberon” JURA 2017
VALERIE TISSOT, trousseau JURA
LA TOURNELLE, trousseau, poulsard, & syrah, “Cul de Brey” JURA

WILD ARC, thirteen varieties, “Amorici Vineyard” WASHINGTON COUNTY/HUDSON VALLEY co-ferment
CHËPÌKA, catawba, FINGER LAKES rosé
EARLY MOUNTAIN, chambourçin & vidal blanc, “Young Wine” SHENANDOAH VALLEY, VIRGINA co-ferment
SOUTHOLD FARM, touriga nacional & viognier, “Lovers & Dreamers” TEXAS HILL COUNTRY co-ferment

GUIBERTEAU, cabernet franc SAUMUR
PORTE SAINT JEAN, cabernet franc/chenin/sauvignon, “Six roses” SAUMUR rosé pét-nat
CATHERINE & PIERRE BRETON, cabernet franc, “Franc de Pied” BOURGUEIL
BENOIT COURAULT, cabernet franc, “Rouliers” ANJOU
BAINBRIDGE & CATHCART, grolleau, “Rouge aux lévres” ANJOU
BRUNO ROCHARD, 100 year-old grolleau, “Coteaux Kanté” ANJOU 2014
MAISON BLANCHE, cabernet franc & merlot, “Le Colombier” MONTAGNE ST EMILION
MAISON BLANCHE, merlot, cabernets franc & sauvignon MONTAGNE ST EMILION 2008
CAUSSE MARINES, braucol, duras, syrah, “Peyrouzelles” GAILLAC
STÉPHANE LUCAS, braucol, “Champ de l’Orphée” GAILLAC
NANCLARES, caíño tinto & mencía, “A senda vermella” RÍAS BAIXAS
FEDELLOS DO COUTO, bastarda RIBEIRA SACRA
FOLIAS DE BACO, 25-plus varieties, “UIVO Renegado” DOURO co-ferment
ENVÍNATE, listan negro, “Migan” TENERIFE

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