Pinot X

Pinot is ancient. It’s morphologically close enough to wild vines to be one step out of the forest. With gouais blanc, it birthed a whole world of northern French varieties (chardonnay, gamay, melon, romorantin, aligoté, just to name its best-known offspring), making pinot and gouais the old gods to the Olympians that would follow, andContinue reading “Pinot X”

Aligoté Has Terroir

“In the past, aligoté was planted at the top of Chambertin! Musigny blanc was half aligoté! It was half of Corton! After phylloxera, most replanted with easier-to-grow chardonnay and put aligoté on the other side of the road where no one ever planted anything but carrots and potatoes. This was the sad story of ruined aligoté.” [Laurent Ponsot, to Alice Feiring]